SKINCARE is very personal business: each complexion has its own set of unique characteristics and needs that can affect the look and feel of your face.
And with most of us falling into one of five ‘skin type’ categories, finding the right products can be a mission.
The American Academy of Dermatology categorises these primary types as oily, dry, normal, combination, and sensitive.
The carousel nature of skincare trends on social media makes it even harder to find the right products, with TikTok throwing up a new acid, facial or tool you apparently 'need' every week.
Now a skincare expert has shared two major ingredients she thinks are overrated.
Unfortunately, it’s bad news for hyaluronic acid and witch hazel fans.
According to Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz, there's many more "beneficial" ingredients on the market.
Fabulous spoke to the chemical engineer and founder of Skin Masterclass to find out what you should be using instead…
Hyaluronic acid gained immense popularity in recent years due to its unique moisture holding abilities, with it being able to attract and retain more than 1,000 times its own weight in water.
But Cigdem warned everything is not as it seems, particularly claims that the popular acid is a winner for wrinkles.
“While hyaluronic acid is most definitely a beneficial skincare ingredient, it is overrated,” she said.
“Gone are the days of using a single-ingredient hyaluronic acid product – we’re looking for multi-active products that offer a multitude of benefits."
That means you should look for products infused with peptides, ceramides and vitamin C if you want to plump out fine lines.
“Hyaluronic acid is now very popularly combined in formulations with amino acids and panthenol, providing a cocktail of moisture and barrier repair properties to the skin," Cidgem continued.
“Not to mention that there are many other ingredients that provide intense hydration, such as urea, ectoin allantoin, and glycerin, which are becoming more and more common within skincare formulations.”
If you’re a hyaluronic acid fan, she recommended an £8.50 product to deliver all of its benefits and more.
Gone are the days of using a single-ingredient hyaluronic acid product – we’re looking for multi-active products
Cidgem, Skin Masterclass
The is particularly good for anyone prone to breakouts as it is free from fatty alcohols, fatty acids and silicones.
The light gel-textured moisturiser goes beyond the basics, as it not only hydrates, but also protects and soothes the skin.
It contains a medium-amount of 5% glycerin, a new-generation molecule called Isosorbide Dicaprylate and a sugar trio, trade named Aquaxyl, to help the transportation of glycerin throughout the skin.
As a result, this strengthens the skin barrier by stimulating the skin’s own ceramide production.
Furthermore, it contains 1% ectoin to hydrate and smoothen the skin, while also protecting from all kinds of environmental stress, such as pollution, oxidative stress and blue light.
Witch hazel is a natural astringent derived from the leaves and bark of the witch hazel plant, officially named hamamelis virginiana.
For decades, it has been hailed as a one-stop-shop for getting rid of spots overnight and soaking up excess oil
But according to Cidgem, you shouldn’t be fooled by its perceived greatness.
“Witch hazel has been praised for its antioxidant properties, with the key one being a group known as tannins,” she said.
“When applied to the skin, tannins actually have an astringent effect.
“But don’t be fooled – this may temporarily reduce the appearance of pores and oiliness, but in the long run, tannins can seriously dry out the skin and damage the skin barrier.
“So, all is not what it seems. Witch hazel is an overrated ingredient that can do your skin more harm than good.”
Cidgem instead urged people to try azelaic acid, a naturally occurring ingredient that soothes breakouts AND fades acne scars.
Azelaic acid has antibacterial properties, which makes it effective in treating acne by targeting the bacteria that contribute to breakouts.
She recommended using for £16 or for £11.10.
"Ellagic acid is your new skin superhero," Cidgem said. "Packed with antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties, this powerhouse acid is beneficial for fighting against sun damage.
"I would highly recommend using in your morning skincare routine, as it can boost sun protection and manage hyper-pigmentation."
“Licorice isn’t just a sweet treat for consumption – it’s a super underrated ingredient for the skin," Cidgem said. "Not only does it contain anti-inflammatory properties, it moisturises the skin, while fighting acne-causing bacteria.
"This is a great all-rounder ingredient, which is particularly beneficial for those with dry, acne-prone skin.”
“Ectoin is a multifunctional skin protector," Cidgem added. "It's a powerful and clinically proven active which excels in repairing damaged skin, promoting barrier repair and offering anti-ageing benefits.
"Its efficacy spans anti-pollution, blue light protection, and nurturing a healthy skin microbiome, catering to various skin types with its pure and sustainable formulation."
“It’s important to note that, even if an ingredient is deemed as overhyped, that doesn’t mean that you should stop using it if it works well for you,” Cidgem added.
“Depending on an individual’s skin type, certain ingredients will work more harmoniously for some rather than others.
“In my opinion, overrated ingredients aren’t always ‘bad’ to use, but rather that there are other ingredients out there that are more beneficial.”
