Off-season skiing

Peak season all year in the Alps

IT'S the hottest day of the year and I'm standing on a glacier in the French Alps in full winter gear, strapped into skis and ready to hit the slopes

IT’S the hottest day of the year and I’m standing on a glacier in the French Alps in full winter gear, strapped into skis and ready to hit the slopes.

Skiing in July? In Europe? If you’re in Les Deux Alpes, you need not let the small matter of summer stop you from skiing, thanks to its snow-covered glacier — the altitude of which goes from 10,500ft to 11,800ft. It is the largest skiable glacier in Europe.

There are only about ten runs but there is also a huge snowpark where daredevil snowboarders swoop along the superpipe.

I was happy cruising along the wide blue runs — there is only one red — and watching racers zigzagging down the slalom course.

If you are serious about skiing and snowboarding, this is obviously the place to come, as it is full of ski club members of all ages from around the world getting in some summer practice.

It is not a place for late sleepers, though, because you can ski only from 7am till about 12.30pm. After that, the snow turns to slush.

But that is when you discover that summer skiing is only one of a huge number of things to do here.

 

While it is a bit nippy on the glacier, in the village it is 28C. Just breathing in the clean Alpine air is enough to make you feel healthy.

I certainly picked the right time to get fitter. I was in Les Deux Alpes to try out a new women’s week — Semaine 100 Per Cent Fille — and the resort has come up with all sorts of activities aimed at the fairer sex.

Days began with an outdoor fitness session led by the incredibly flexible Thierry, who got us running and stretching in the kind of stupendous scenery you would never get in a gym.

It was a good warm-up for the afternoon’s activity, which I have to admit I had been a bit nervous about.

We were having a go at downhill mountain biking, and were kitted out in some serious full-body protection that made us look like ninja turtles.

Before we knew it, we were on the chairlift with our bikes attached to the back, making our way up to Vallee Blanche at 6,900ft. The jaw-dropping beauty of the mountains was almost enough to make us forget we were about to go bombing down to the village.

But there was no rush. At first we were taking it slowly, on relatively wide beginner trails, getting used to the technique and breathing in the heady scent of wild herbs.

As the terrain got tougher, our confidence grew, and by the end of the exhilarating run we were grinning like mad.

After peeling off the ninja armour, we changed into bikinis and headed to the pretty Lac de la Buissoniere. Diving into the lake’s water was pure bliss.
It is easy to see why the lake is a popular spot: there is also a skate park, playground, boules pitch and picnic areas.

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Les Deux Alpes may be far from the beaches of the Riviera, but it is certainly not lacking in places for a relaxing swim, even if your hotel does not have a pool.

Walking back to the centre of the village, I can see a wealth of activities. There is a large municipal pool, a spa, paragliding, tennis, golf, mini-golf, trampolines, volleyball, another skate park, more playgrounds and — what looks like massive fun — an air jump.

If I had been able to stay a bit longer, I could have joined the yoga and Zumba classes being put on later in the week for Semaine 100 Per Cent Fille.

I had to satisfy myself with a fabulous lunch at the poolside restaurant of Chalet Mounier, a cosy four-star hotel overlooking lush mountain meadows.

The view was as sublime as my truffle risotto.

By now I had completely fallen under the spell of summer in the Alps. It is a world away from crowded coastal resorts.

It is a lot more affordable, too, especially as Les Deux Alpes is one of France’s cheaper resorts, both in winter and summer.

And along the village’s two high streets, you will not run out of options for eating, drinking and shopping.

There was a final treat in store for my last evening. Every week from June until the end of August, Les Deux Alpes puts on a big village barbecue.

The deal is, you bring your own meat to grill on the barbecues provided — and the village supplies the wine.

After the feast, everyone troops into a hall for a cheesy disco. Whole family groups were dancing the Macarena — I did say it was cheesy — and having a laugh. And it’s nothing to do with the free wine.

It’s not quite like dancing on tables in your ski boots but it’ll do for me.

 

GO: LES DEUX ALPES
GETTING / STAYING THERE: Peak Retreats has a week’s self-catering at the 4H Le Cortina from £154 per person, based on four people sharing a two-bed apartment as well as a midweek ferry crossing. Accommodation only packages are also available. For details, see or call 0844 576 0170.
MORE INFO: Les Deux Alpes is open for the summer season until next Saturday, August 27. You can find out more at .

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