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BIG MAC AND RISE

Writer reveals how the hamburger shot to fame and offers ultimate guide to fast-food fave from toasted bun to streaky bacon

David Michaels traces the rise of the meaty treat in his new book The World is Your Burger: A Cultural History

THEY used to be cheap treats to grab on the go.

But the burger boom of the past ten years has brought a gourmet twist to the humble hamburger. and the high street has filled with new household names such as Gourmet Burger Kitchen, Byron, Honest, Patty & Bun, MEATliquor and Bleecker.

 The high street is filled with upmarket burger bars offering their gourmet take on the meal
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The high street is filled with upmarket burger bars offering their gourmet take on the mealCredit: Getty Images

Even posh restaurants such as The Ivy serve up their own expensive take.

Now burger super-fan David Michaels has compiled the ultimate guide of the fast food favourite, The World is Your Burger: A Cultural History.

Here he traces the rise of the meaty treat from motorway van staple to fashionable foodie fodder. While below, connoisseur Nick Andrews of the Hamburger Me blog provides his guide to the perfect burger.

 Meat feast: a Bleecker burger
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Meat feast: a Bleecker burgerCredit: bleeker burger
 High-street fave: an Honest burger
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High-street fave: an Honest burgerCredit: honest burger

 


David Michael's history of the hamburger

THE undisputed king of the grill, the hamburger has become the world’s favourite food — and it’s unstoppable rise shows no sign of slowing.

From fast-food chains’ greasy treats to luxury brioche buns in hip indie joints, we can’t get enough of them.

I had my first burger at a Wimpy bar in 1973, aged seven — and I was hooked.

I now probably have one every other day.

 David Michaels had his first burger at Wimpy... and would have one everyday if he could
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David Michaels had his first burger at Wimpy... and would have one everyday if he couldCredit: Alamy
 The burger has been immortalised in films such as Pulp Fiction
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The burger has been immortalised in films such as Pulp FictionCredit: Miramax/Buena Vista/Kobal

A burger is more than just a guilty pleasure, though. It is a symbol.

Immortalised in film and television, it is a cultural icon.

The success of the burger is thought to have been born after the American Civil War in the 1860s, when newly built railways opened up the beef market to all corners of the country.

Beef was easier to transport than ever — and Americans wanted an easy way to eat it.

In its most basic form a burger is just a bun with a beef patty in the middle. But with a bit of invention it can become incredible.

Top chef Daniel Boulud makes a burger stuffed with short ribs and foie gras.

 Wolfgang Puck has been serving burgers at the celebrity-studded Oscars ceremonies for years
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Wolfgang Puck has been serving burgers at the celebrity-studded Oscars ceremonies for yearsCredit: AP:Associated Press
 David reckons the Big Mac is the ultimate hangover cure
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David reckons the Big Mac is the ultimate hangover cureCredit: Alamy

And Wolfgang Puck has served burgers at the Oscars for years.

The burger has graduated from a snack for teens to a treat for foodies. With that, prices have risen.

We are now willing to pay as much as £15 for a burger, fries and a drink.

I still think a McDonald’s Big Mac is the ultimate hangover cure, but we have so much more choice now.

We have become connoisseurs.

If I’ve had a bad day and need a boost, I don’t turn to chocolate, I want a juicy burger.

And judging by the queues at trendy burger joints, I am not alone.

 

The perfect burger

 Stack em high: only chuck cut beef, American mustard and a sweet demi-brioche bun will do
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Stack em high: only chuck cut beef, American mustard and a sweet demi-brioche bun will doCredit: The Dish / News Syndication

Bun

A toasted sweet demi-brioche will  match the flavour of aged meat. It must not break up when held.

Gherkin
Essential,  but do go easy. The vinegary acidity gives the perfect balance to the fat in the meat.

Cheese
Must have a low melting point so burger isn’t on the grill too long. A sticky American cheese is perfect.

Meat
A 100 per cent chuck cut that has been aged. Cook on a flat grill so the juices don’t drip off.

Bacon
A must-have for a hit of salt. Has to be streaky.   Back bacon is harder to bite so can flop out in one go.

Onion
These can be a bit tasteless in a burger. I’m not sure they add much – but each to their own.

Tomato
A slow-roasted tomato adds tang. A lump of salad tomato isn’t nice but a thin  beef tomato can work.

Lettuce
Go for a watery lettuce, none of this rocket rubbish. Place it under the patty to stop meat juices making the bun soggy.

Sauces
Mayo, ketchup and an American yellow mustard  strike a balance without overpowering the flavour.

Burger facts

  • You have to walk 9 miles to burn off a Burger King Double Whopper
  • The Heart Attack Grill burger in Las Vegas contains 9,982 calories
  • London’s Honky Tonk burger has an edible gold leaf, Kobe beef, caviar, and costs £1,100
  •  Burger King paid for Joel Burger & Ashley King’s  wedding. They wore BK paper crowns
  • WW1 troops called hamburgers ‘liberty sandwiches’ to avoid using the German name
  • In 1885, Charlie Nagreen squished a meatball between some bread, making the first burger

 

The World Is Your Burger: A Cultural History, by David Michaels, Phaidon, £24.95

 

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