The European Christmas market you can get to by train – with electric trams, ski rides and 200 chalets

WE weave through the wooden stalls illuminated by twinkling fairy lights and watch while servers dish up healthy portions of festive grub and waffles dripping in Nutella.

Belgium comes to life at this time of year, as do its sparkling Christmas markets — and I’m wandering through the largest one in the country.

No, I’m not in Brussels, or Bruges.

This is Liege, a characterful city that sits close to the Dutch border with the Meuse river winding through its centre.

The Village de Noel is jam-packed with 200 chalets dishing out Christmassy nibbles all overlooked by a colourful ferris wheel. What could be better for a festive break?

The city is easy to reach from the UK with options to drive and take the Channel Tunnel, but my mum and I decided to take the Eurostar from London St Pancras which took us straight to Brussels in two hours.

From there we had a smooth, hour-long transition to Liege on a luxurious double decker carriage.

Our home for the duration of the trip was the trendy 4H Pentahotel, which offers a relaxed vibe, swapping a stuffy reception for a sports bar with comfy leather sofas, a pool table and several TV screens.

There is even a free-to-use football table game. Unbeknown to me, my mother was a pro at the game, thanks to her university days.

Best of all is the hotel’s location in the heart of the city, so we were perfectly positioned to launch ourselves into the attractions.

The Christmas markets, with Santa’s Grotto, ice rink and ski ride, are a short walk from here and run from November to the end of December.

The artisan stalls, selling everything from tea to handmade soaps, are perfect for grabbing stocking fillers — but the grub is the main attraction.

Foodies will be in for a treat with gourmet delights to devour on the hoof, including piping-hot mulled wine, simmering pans of creamy tartiflette, chips with andalouse sauce (a local spicy mayo), and, of course, classic Belgian waffles.

But before you start stuffing your face here, make sure to try Pentahotel’s breakfast.

It is more than just your average hotel brekkie with an array of pancakes and pastries, plus a mimosa station that makes everyday feel like a special occasion.

We were especially delighted to discover Ruffus sparkling wine, the region of Wallonia’s version of Champagne.

The market is more atmospheric at night so during the day we explored the city on foot (although the tourists of tomorrow will be able to take advantage of the electric trams currently being installed).

After a solid diet of chocolate, chips, waffles and beer the night before, I was grateful to burn a few calories climbing the spectacular 374-step street staircase of the Montagne de Bueren, the city’s main tourist attraction.

The stomp is worth it for the panoramic views at the top, just as the sun came out.

The newly restored St Paul’s Cathedral is also worth a visit, with its Gothic cloister and array of newly designed stained glass windows juxtaposed with styles dating back to the 13th century.

You can visit its Treasure Room, which is like seeing the crown jewels, with an awe-inspiring collection of gold crowns and statues and two 11th-century sculpted ivory pieces.

When you have soaked up enough architecture, there are plenty of museums to lose yourself in but we opted for a stroll along the river to the Parc de la Boverie.

The serene park sits on a grassy island and is home to an art gallery, which, when we visited, was showing an intriguing collection of Rothschild personal art, including a skull collection and a piece by French artist Renoir.

With Liege’s busy university and 20,000 students, the nightlife here is thriving and the city centre stays lively late into the night.

We decided to swerve the many clubs in favour of cocktails at La Cafetaria, which offers late-night food and excellent service.

I may need to join a boot camp after my Christmassy carb fest, but it was worth every magical morsel.