The European destination that is the happiest country in the world – and has 200 days of snow a year

IT’S minus two outside, but I’m snuggled up in the warmth of an igloo with floor-to-ceiling windows.

Outside, snow-dusted pine trees glow in the light of the moon as two baby deer playfully bound into view. 

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The soundtrack to this icy spectacle?

A simple but splendid silence.

This winter wonderland is Lapland, in northern Finland, which has been ranked as the happiest country on Earth for six consecutive years in the United Nations World Happiness Report.

And I can see why.

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My little piece of perfection for the night is a forest cabin in the Magical Pond resort in Ruka-Kuusamo, where it snows 200 days of the year.

There are just three hours of daylight in December, when it’s ideal for skiing, ice climbing and snowmobile riding.

But you get sunlight 24 hours a day in June, when you can enjoy horseback- riding, ziplining, canoeing and bear- watching,

After a bracing hike through the rugged terrain of Oulanka National Park, I wolf down campfire-cooked pancakes before setting off for a location that will delight kids ahead of Christmas — the Kujala Reindeer Farm. 

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Meeting and feeding a herd of working reindeer in a mini-blizzard is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

For such a vast wilderness, everything seems just a short taxi drive away, perhaps because the views out of the window are never less than Christmas card-worthy.

Arriving at the private resort of Rukan Salonki for my second night in Lapland, the authentic log chalet takes my breath away.

If there’s ever a sequel to 2006 rom com The Holiday, this would be the ideal setting.

With views across a frozen lake, the six-bedroom villa is fully equipped as a contemporary guest house, and there’s also a sauna — which is something I’m about to learn is a must-have in almost all buildings in Finland.

For a true taste of Finnish culture, I head for a traditional sauna experience at Pohjolan Pirtti & Kievari.

“The sauna is everything,” says owner Tanja, before turning up the heat and whacking me with birch leaf and spiky juniper — said to have a similar effect to acupuncture.

“We take our children to sauna when they are about six months old. It’s the essence of Finnish lifestyle, maybe even our happiness.”

Ah, so that’s the secret . . . 

A sauna is also on my itinerary when I land from the 90-minute flight to capital Helsinki for the city part of my short break — as is cold-water swimming.

Finns swear by it, but I only get as far as dipping a foot in.

So with my right foot now in the prime of life, I head into the city to learn first-hand why Finns are so happy.

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The answer is a concept they call “sisu” — a resilience, a contentment with life, a positive mindset.

And it’s easy to understand why they feel that way — Helsinki feels safe (kids are allowed to roam freely) and it is clean, relaxed and welcoming.

Staring up at stars

This is a big city but it’s punctuated with lush greenery and never too busy.

There are never too many cars and no one’s rushing.

The air feels clean and the vibe is chilled, literally.

Its public transport feels superior to anything I’ve seen in London, with trams, buses, trains, a metro, electric scooters and, given that the city sits on a peninsula in the Gulf of Finland, boats and ferries.

There are cultural tourist hotspots aplenty, from domed underground art gallery Amos Rex to architect’s museum The Aalto House.

Maritime buffs must take a boat ride to World Heritage site the Suomenlinna island fortress.

The food scene is vibrant, too, with menus in high-end but reasonably priced restaurants determined by the seasons.

I recommend Mat Distrikt for some top-class Finnish tenderloin.

For the prettiest vegetarian, Insta-friendly dishes, try Yes Yes Yes in the Design District.

And for the freshest catch of the day, it’s the quaint Adlerfelt on Suomenlinna.

For a cosy, comfy night in a central location, the waterfront Hilton Helsinki Strand is ideally situated.

But there’s a more spectacular experience at the Hilton Helsinki Kalas-tajatorppa, which boasts six IGLUX — 12-cornered glass “igloos” containing a double bed, sink and toilet.

They are located on a dock in Laajalahti Bay where you can spend all night simply staring up at the stars.

To cap off the most peaceful break I’ve ever had I get to enjoy a newly refurbished business class “pod” on the flight home with Finnair.

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It features a luxurious, private, lay-flat bed — and probably the best service I’ve ever received on a plane.

It’s no wonder Finns are so happy.

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