ISLE SEE YOU THERE
The Spanish island you’ve probably not heard of with 25C winters, cheap rum and few tourists
The island’s microclimate means it can be cloudy on one side, with glorious sunshine on the other
A BANANA farmer earns more in La Palma than a lawyer, the locals say.
And with the thousands of trees, stretching up the hills as far as the eye can see, each holding around 130 fruits each, you can start to see why this could be an attractive career option.
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The Canary Islands’ fifth largest island exports nearly all of Spain’s bananas every year, alongside sweet mangos, avocados and papayas.
William Shakespeare became obsessed with its Malvasia wine — which he loved so much he had it shipped back to England.
Around 150,000 tourists come to the island every year — just a fraction of the millions of Brits who flock to its bigger sisters of Gran Canaria, Tenerife and Lanzarote.
It’s the Canary you’ve probably never heard of.
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That is, until two years ago when a volcano erupted on the island for the first time in 50 years, staying active for two months, and denting the already small tourist trade.
If you head to the west of the island to one of the many breathtaking viewpoints you can see where the eruption at the Cumbre Vieja ridge destroyed 3,000 buildings in 2021.
At 85 days, it became the longest eruption the island had ever seen.
I tentatively packed jeans fearing the poor weather forecast and high-teen temperatures were all we were destined for.
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But thankfully they remained at the bottom of the case as the mercury soared to 25C.
Even in January, temperatures average a balmy 20C and there’s less than 4mm of rain a month, guaranteeing glorious blue skies.
We got sunburnt on day one — in true British style — and didn’t once have to reserve a sun lounger or queue for pudding thanks to heading off out-of-season.
The island’s microclimate means it can be cloudy on one side, with glorious sunshine on the other.
An all-inclusive deal from Tui to the cliff-top La Palma Princess Hotel gave us little reason to leave our corner of paradise.
With seven swimming pools, a gym, spa, two poolside bars and endless family entertainment, it was a struggle to leave the palm-tree lined terraces of the pools.
World’s biggest telescopes
Surrounded by banana groves and the deep blue of the Atlantic Ocean, the hilly location may be a challenge for less-mobile guests but after several days of sunset yoga and stuffing ourselves with coconut ice cream, we dared step outside.
Just a few miles down the road on the southern tip, you can catch a bus or hike down to the volcano in Fuencaliente (there’s a pretty sea view for days alongside the volcanic hiking routes).
Tui’s excursion day trips will take you around nearly the entire island by bus, complete with Rudy, the ever-enthusiastic tour guide with 40 years’ experience on the island under his belt.
Aside from the vital tourism and foodie trade, the 2,400m volcanic peaks and perfect equatorial location led to the world’s astronomers and astrophysicists flocking to the summit for its views of the skies above.
A long windy journey up the mountain (not for the fainthearted if you dislike hairpin turns) will take you high above the clouds to where several of the world’s top observatories lie, surrounded by the centuries-old craters of past eruptions.
Wander around the Roque de los Muchachos Observatory and learn about how scientists study our night sky using some of the biggest telescopes in the world.
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The strict laws which prohibit industry and minimise light pollution keep the island lovely and green — and make it an ideal place for a night drive to see all the stars at their brightest in the clear skies.
Hire a car for an afternoon out in San Andres in the north east, with its stunning plants and flowers in full bloom in the late spring.
Stop by the gorgeous hilltop Restaurant San Andres with its delightful, fresh seafood and paellas.
Try grandma’s fish croquettes and some local rum.
In warmer months, a plunge in the stunning seaside rockpool, Charco Azul, is a must to cool off looking over the ocean.
In the east, check out the farmers’ market Mercadillo del Agricultor de Puntagorda and tuck into a lunch of delicious traditional almond cookies, almendrados, on the woodland benches outside — but don’t forget to take cash.
Alcohol is plentiful and cheap, with beer both on tap and trendy craft a good few deal cheaper than back home.
But as spirits are tax-free on La Palma, it would be rude not to pick up a bottle of rum — made from the sugar cane on the island for hundreds of years.
Have a tasting session at Aldea Rum Distillery and pick your favourite to take home.
And don’t forget to drive as deep as you can into the rainforest to see the stunning Cascada de los Tilos waterfall in all its green beauty, complete with beautiful pine trees that can only grow there.
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On the way back, stop off in the capital Santa Cruz for a trip to the beach and harbour, and a stroll through the charming town’s market stalls and craft shops.
After a week on this verdant “La Isla Bonita”, I’m definitely a convert for travelling off the Canary’s beaten path.
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GO: La Palma
GETTING/STAYING THERE: Seven nights’ all-inclusive at the 5H La Palma Princess is from £552pp including flights from Gatwick on January 4, 2024.
Includes 20kg luggage and transfers.
See .
OUT & ABOUT: TUI offers several La Palma excursions including a Tour of Northern La Palma with Roque de los Muchachos with expert local guide.
Visit the summit of La Palma’s highest peak and shopping at the village of Puntagorda.
Prices from £48pp for adults and £30pp for children.
Includes pick-up and drop-off from your hotel.
Visit or speak with the TUI reps at your resort.
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