My David Attenborough-worthy seal encounter in tiny UK seaside village that’s packed with rare wildlife & medieval ruins
These shapes, we soon realise, are actually huge grey seals and there are hundreds as far as the eye can see
THE sun-soaked sands stretch out before us, for miles and miles.
It looks as if large rocks have washed ashore, scattered along the water’s edge.
But as we move closer, one of those “rocks” begins to wiggle and flap.
These shapes, we soon realise, are actually huge grey seals and there are hundreds as far as the eye can see.
Then, a closer look reveals an even bigger surprise — small bundles of grey and fluffy wide-eyed seal pups flapping about by their mothers.
I’m in Winterton-on-Sea, a small village on the picturesque Norfolk coast where thousands of these creatures lounge on the beach each year between November and February.
My family and I are visiting a dog-friendly holiday cottage during winter, when the tourist tide of summer has receded to leave just a handful of hardy visitors.
Our home for four nights is two-bedroom Tremeer, a modern treat from Winterton Cottages that comes with a huge sofa to snuggle down on after long walks, and a cosy fireplace.
Getting there is easy — take a train to Great Yarmouth then a 20-minute, pet-friendly taxi (best book ahead).
And the golden sands and blue sky bring us close to thinking we are abroad.
The cold reminds us we are in England but does not detract from the striking beauty of our surroundings.
Swing by the village’s Seal View Cafe for a hot chocolate or breakfast bap while watching seals on the shore.
Or stroll on the sand dunes, which are protected as a wildlife reserve.
Look out for rare Natterjack toads, which we heard but were not lucky enough to clap eyes on.
The beach winds on past Hemsby, the next village south, before reaching the resort town of Great Yarmouth — buzzing with classic seaside fun, such arcade games and donkey rides.
If you take the beautiful two-mile long walk from Winterton to Hemsby, stop for a pint at the dog-friendly Kings Head on North Road.
Or if you prefer to stay nearer your home-from-home, the Fisherman’s Return pub in Winterton is full of chatty locals and holidaymakers, almost all with canine companions.
The varied menu of classic and well-priced grub, plus the best chips and dog snacks at the bar, tempted us back each night.
Or if pub grub is not your thing, there is also a village corner shop, a chippie, and Poppies tea room serving finger sandwiches, dainty cakes and scones.
One note of warning, though, is that some shops and attractions in the area have special winter opening hours, so best check ahead beforehand.
The next day, we ventured north on a countryside walk weaving through farmland and forest where we spotted a majestic muntjac deer bounding along.
With help from the Merlin Bird ID app we also managed a few more prize spottings.
But it was not only the wildlife we marvelled at.
In the next village along, East Somerton, lie the medieval ruins of St Mary’s Church, hidden by trees and ivy.
Blink and you will miss them.
With no roof, and its walls half gone, the building is now open to the elements and a single tree grows in the centre where the congregation once sat.
The brooding tree is nicknamed The Witch’s Leg because legend has it that a witch was buried alive here.
Avoid walking around the tree three times, the story goes, or you risk releasing her spirit.
But back at the Winterton pub, a different kind of spirit awaits — one that will certainly reward us for our lengthy strolls and lashings of sea air.
GO: Norfolk
STAYING THERE: Seven nights’ self-catering at Treemer cottage starts from £260.75pp, based on four people sharing, while a three-night weekend break costs from £158.50pp. Four dogs welcome.
See or call 01493 800 645.