48 Hours in… Edinburgh – what to do, what to see and where to go
Edinburgh has beauty, brains and bounce.
The Scottish capital is a wonderful city to visit on a quick break. Its compact layout, with the castle teetering over the alleyways of the Old Town and the elegant crescents of New Town, makes it easy to see a lot on foot. Excellent museums help explain why Edinburgh was once an international intellectual powerhouse. You can get a taste of sea air at fashionable Leith or mountain views at Arthur’s seat before heading off for a hearty Scottish supper and a dram or two in friendly pubs. Time your trip for August to enjoy the enormous fringe festival and the magnificent Military Tattoo.
Our 48-hour guide will help you discover this lovely, lively old city.
Day 1
9am – 10am: The City Café in Blair Street has got your breakfast needs covered, including a full-on Scottish breakfast with potato scones. It’s a busy spot, not far from Princes Street Railway Station, and popular with students, who usually know how to spot the value places to eat.
10am – 11am: Edinburgh’s lovely St Giles’ Cathedral is just a couple of streets away so head there for some peace and tranquillity just off the bustling Royal Mile. The building dates back to the 12th century, but the site has been a religious centre for much longer. It has beautiful stained glass windows and a roof top tour will give you some great city views.
10am – 1pm: The city’s other most important building is the Castle, looking down on everything. As well as being a stunning structure, perched on the rocky cliffs, Edinburgh castle is full of history that’s very well told to visitors in lots of exhibits, tours, talks and re-enactments. Make sure you catch the ancient crown jewels of Scotland.
1pm - 2pm: Le Café Bleu is nearby and a good spot for a quickish lunch. It’s small and friendly with a good reputation for its food. The name tips you off to its French influences, but they’ll do you a spicy haggis wrap if you want something with genuine Scottish character.
2pm - 3pm: Walk south and you’ll soon be at the Royal Mile, the city’s central avenue. The Mile itself is packed with shops that target the tourist market, so scout out your souvenir shopping. Enjoy the beautiful buildings too, but don’t neglect the alleys and side streets that hide some interesting shops, cafes and hidden squares.
3pm – 4pm: Mary’s Milk Bar is a good excuse to head up and take a stroll around the Grass Market, one of the city’s most famous spaces, lined with tall, elegant houses and always full of life. The ladies at Mary’s will serve you some of Edinburgh’s best ice cream while you watch the world rush by.
4pm – 5pm: It’s time to take a longer break in your hotel. It’s possible to stay in the city centre without spending too much money, and has nearly 600 accommodation providers listed, many with great central locations.
Many visitors choose to stay slightly further afield though, at places like East Kilbride, which is a good base from which to explore both Edinburgh and Glasgow, or head north to the Highlands.
6pm – 8pm: Edinburgh’s a very welcoming city, so why not dine in one of the city’s famous pubs? The Doctors in the Old Town does good quality pub-style food. Just don’t let the relics of the place’s former life as a coffin maker’s office put you off your meal!
8pm – 11pm: The High Mile, taking in the High Street and Royal Mile is a famous Edinburgh pub crawl. There are some beautiful boozers on that route, but you don’t have to go mad to have a brilliant Edinburgh night. The Conan Doyle in York Place is a fantastically traditional place with great local beers, or just up the road is Beer and Skittles Bar, which has more in the way of entertainment and modern craft beers.
Day 2
9am – 10am: The Blue Bear café in Canonmills on the way to Leith will set you up for the day. It’s one of the best breakfast spots in Edinburgh, with a good, family-friendly menu.
10am – 12pm: Leith isn’t just an increasingly fashionable waterfront with lots of trendy bars. It’s still an important port, and its maritime history is celebrated at the Royal Yacht Britannia, which once took our monarchs off on their hols. It’s a beautiful old boat with excellent information and lots of family appeal.
12pm – 2pm: While you’re by the water, visit The Ship on the Shore, a very good seafood restaurant close to what used to be the dockyards. Its grand brass and dark-wood interiors should tip you off that this isn’t the cheapest place in town, but it’s got a good reputation for its food and service.
2pm – 3pm: Back in the city, the scares at the Edinburgh Dungeon will help wake you up after lunch. The city is starting to celebrate some of its darker history, and this attraction featuring an underground boat ride and lots of costumed characters is a brilliantly scary experience for families with older (and braver) children.
3pm – 4pm: A traditional cuppa with delectable cakes at Clarinda's Tea Room in Canongate will restore your nerves. And Holyrood House, the old royal palace, and the new Scottish Parliament are just round the corner.
4pm – 6pm: Arthur’s Seat is a must see on any Edinburgh trip. While it’s famous for its panoramic views of the city and out to sea, it’s no Everest at 251m in height and a relatively easy climb. The peak is surrounded by the beautiful Holyrood Park.
5pm – 7pm: Head back to the ranch for some recuperation. Self-catering is a good way to get even better value on your trip to Edinburgh.
7pm – 9pm: The White Hart Inn in Grassmarket has a beautiful location and is renowned for its traditional haggis from a menu that’s long on Scottish specialities. Is it the oldest pub in Edinburgh? That’s hard to prove. Perhaps one of the ghosts – it also claims to be the most haunted – will tell you.
9pm – 11pm: The Whiski Bar on High Street will keep the Caledonian theme flowing. It has a huge selection of Scotland’s biggest export – with lots of information for beginners - and regular live traditional music. Enjoy a whiskey-fuelled evening and meander your way back to the hotel.
Final Day
9am-10am: After breakfast and before you leave, you’ve got time for some last minute shopping. Prince’s Street must be one of the prettiest shopping streets in Britain, with fantastic views of the Old Town and the Castle as well as lots of big high-street stores. Neighbouring George Street should be on your itinerary if you’re on the prowl for high-end fashion, with a quick dash to Multrees Walk to visit Harvey Nick’s around which other designer stores cluster.
Edinburgh repays repeated visits, from winters that’ll make that whisky a real warmer, to the long days of a Scottish summer. Come in August for the triple whammy of the artistic International Festival, the Fringe Festival’s world-class comedy, and the Royal Military Tattoo’s precision parading, before a distillery tour on the beautiful Isle of Arran.