48 Hours in… Berlin – what to do, what to see and where to go
The historic capital of Germany has seen some chequered times; divided and on the front line of the Cold War for decades.
Since the Berlin Wall fell in 1989, ‘The Grey City’ has risen again as one of the great cities of the world. Today Berlin is a lively place, with a young, creative population who’ve brought the 24-hour party city of the 20s back to life and are enjoying it to the full at great value prices. If you want to experience Europe’s most exciting city, read our two-day whistle-stop timetable to get you started.
Day 1
8am – 9am: They take breakfast very seriously in Berlin, and before a big day in the city it’s a good idea to fuel up properly. Flamingo Fresh Food Bar offers something a little different from the towers of hams and pastries that you’ll typically see in a German breakfast. The Flamingo staff are famously friendly and will set you on your way with a smile.
10am – 1pm: The Tiergarten is just down the road and is one of the world’s great city parks. It’s a place to stroll and people watch, but also full of history, with statues and memorials around every corner, including the Victory Column with its observation deck for excellent views over the city, and the sombre Soviet War Memorial, flanked by two T-34 tanks. To see the lighter side of the park, look out for busy flea markets, take a boat out onto the lake or pull up for a coffee at a lakeside café.
1pm - 2pm: To the west of the Tiergarten is the posh Charlottenburg district. It doesn’t have to be a budget-busting trip though; stroll through the elegant streets and pull up a chair at Café Bleibtreu, a Berlin institution with pavement tables that are perfect for people watching, and a large international menu that should cover most tastes. Brunches here are just €11.50 and the specials include local favourites like currywurst and chips.
2pm - 3pm: Nearby Charlottenburg Palace is the German equivalent of Buck House, the largest surviving royal palace in the city and a spectacular dose of architectural power. Inside, it’s filled with sumptuous interiors, incredible antiques and one of the best porcelain collections in the world. Charlottenburg is also famous for its shopping, from high-end boutiques to one of the country’s best Christmas markets.
3pm – 4pm: Head back to the south-west corner of the Tiergarten to tick off one of the city’s must-sees, the Zoologischer Garten, or Berlin Zoo, the most species-rich zoo in the world. It’s a massive place, with star characters including gorillas, orangutans and hippos. The design is very modern, with as few fences as possible. Check the zoo’s English-language website for details of feeding times for some of the more notable residents.
5pm – 6pm: Before a night on the town Berlin style, you’ll want to take a breather and get on your glad rags back at the hotel. The Art’otel Berlin Kudamm is back in trendy Charlottenburg, and is as well presented as some of the fine local fashion stores.
6pm – 8pm: For some traditional German food and beer of the highest quality at decent value prices, try Marjellchen in Mommsenstrasse, which is within walking distance to the east. It serves regional German specialities, like East Prussian cream, ham and Pomeranian pork stew in hearty portions, washed down with steins of the best beer in the world.
8pm – 11pm: The best bars in the city are packed into this area. If an elegant cocktail is your thing, then the Puro Sky Bar’s views are the perfect backdrop. Walk on the wilder side at Das Klo, which means “the loo”, a name that is reflected in some interesting beer glasses and design choices. Or perhaps the jazz at Quasimodo will get you in the mood for a night in the town’s legendary clubs.
Day 2
9am – 10am: On your way back into the city centre, stop off at 1900 Café in Knesebeckstrausse for a classic German breakfast of cheeses, hams and rolls. It’s very popular with locals and its cosy interiors can get crowded, so get there as early as you can.
10am – 12pm: As Paris has the Eiffel Tower and London has Big Ben, Berlin has the Brandenburg Gate. This enormous sandstone monument is a symbol of Germany’s division and now of its unity. It’s a place to stand and stare and get a selfie, but also worth exploring more closely to understand some of the history of the gate. Allow some time to take in the sights and sounds of busy Pariser Platz, the gorgeous square that the gate sits in.
12pm – 2pm: The area around the gate is packed with food outlets, including international favourites like Starbucks, Haagen Dazs and Dunkin Donuts, but if you’re still on the hunt for the perfect German sausage, try Alt-Berliner Wirtshaus, a city centre restaurant that serves big, traditional portions of meat-focussed German classics.
2pm – 3pm: On the south side of the Tiergarten and with great views over the zoo is Bikini Berlin, a very new and very stylish art, design, entertainment and shopping centre. Pop up onto the roof, where there’s an ice rink, settle into a table at Funk You to take in the antics of the zoo’s baboons, or pick up some quirky, fashionable design items in stores that include unique independents and big names like Levis and North Face.
3pm – 4pm: The efficient Germans have put all of their capital’s best cultural stops in one easy-to-explore location, and Museum Island is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The collections in the six museums here are largely of art and historical artefacts, including some amazing Ancient Egyptian relics. The Pergamonmuseum is the most popular and you might want to book timed entrance tickets if you’re visiting during peak times.
4pm – 5pm: The most famous border crossing in the world, Checkpoint Charlie, is now a visitor attraction with a mock-up of the guard huts, barriers and a surviving section of the Wall that helped divide the city. There’s a small free museum that’s very family friendly.
5pm – 7pm: Well into territory that would have once been off-limits to West Berliners, the Adina Apartment Hotel is great value and sits in Hackescher Markt Square, an area that’s got a growing reputation for its nightlife. A quick sauna in their excellent spa will set you up for an evening out.
7pm – 9pm: If the Australian restaurant in the hotel isn’t bringing your boomerangs back then Kantine Deluxe is an interesting alternative. This smart, modern place shows how much East Berlin has changed since the days of food shortages and a Stasi man checking what you order. It’s great value, with a menu that includes pizza and pasta to keep the kids happy, and a modern concept that means you order on iPads.
9pm – 11pm: There’s a lively, young scene around Hackescher Markt, and plenty of choices for a drink and maybe some dancing afterwards. For a taste of the British Isles, try the award-winning Kilkenny (the Germans love Irish pubs), the cool jazz bar, b-flat, or join the fashionable crowd at Watergate if you can get past the picky door staff.
Final Day
9am-10am: Cross the River Spree to get to Chipps for your final Berlin breakfast. This good value café in Jagerstrasse, served a good range of breakfasts from the very healthy to hangover killers, all with quirky names. Order The Morning After or a Walk of Shame before taking in a riverside walk and heading to the airport.
Berlin’s a brilliant destination for a weekend away, with huge variety, great sights, beautiful streets, and a very warm welcome in this sometimes freezing metropolis.