Do a souk-a-market sweep in Marrakech!
FROM the eclectic madness of the medina to the tranquillity of the surrounding countryside, Marrakech is the jewel in Morocco’s crown. Sunny all year, it’s ideal for romantic getaways, girlie weekends and luxe family holidays – and all just three-and-a-half hours away by plane.
BOUTIQUE BEAUTY
After landing at the airport, I jump in a taxi for the 30-minute drive to Villa Dinari (£20). This boutique B&B 13km out of the city has just eight bedrooms and private bungalows hidden behind terracotta walls. On the journey, I spot the snow-capped Atlas mountains glistening in the distance, while camels graze on the roadside and pinky-red riads (traditional Moroccan houses) sit pretty between palm trees. I’m greeted with mint tea and home-made pastries, and any stresses slip away as I discover the beautiful pool and never-ending gardens. My pretty bungalow has a huge bed and opens on to the grounds.
BARGAIN BAZAAR
The next morning, I take the 20-minute drive (£10) with Abdel, Villa Dinari’s local guide, to the medina (the old city) in Marrakech’s town centre. It’s surrounded by high walls, and I feel like I’m in an Indiana Jones film as I slip into the chaos of stalls and an endless stream of tourists, traders, donkeys and motorbikes. The open-air markets, known as souks, are a muddle of smells – herbs, spices and incense one moment, meat and donkey mess the next. As Abdel – whose tailored-to-you tours start from £75 for a half day for 2-4 people – guides me through the maze of cobbled streets, I snap up three scarves for £10, a lantern for £15 and a teapot for £10. Craving serenity, I head for a consultation with a herbalist at the Herboriste Du Paradis, where I get a fab massage free with my haul of herbal remedies, teas and spices.
ROYAL RETREAT
The next day I explore the stunning Bahia Palace – originally a grand home, now a museum (Palais-bahia.com). It costs just 70p entrance and I wander around the magnificent marbled courtyard, imagining how it must have been to be lady of the manor. As Marrakech is a former French colony, the wine is amazing, so at Cafe Arabe I enjoy a juicy Cabernet Sauvignon, £5 per glass, while watching the sun set from the terrace (). I then take a 10-minute stroll to Jemaa El-Fna, the main square in the middle of the medina for dinner. I plump for a spicy aubergine dish, £4, from a local vendor and watch snake charmers, henna artists and fortune-tellers offer their services. But I keep my head down... Look too much and you may get a (harmless, of course) grass snake wrapped around your neck!
SUMMIT TO DO
On my last day I opt for a change of scenery in the Atlas Mountains. A local guide picks me up in a jeep with a small group of other tourists and for two hours we weave through the ancient Berber trails, which are home to little houses encased in the earth and craggy hills, before stopping for lunch in the village of Imlil, where we tuck into couscous with roasted vegetables. Prices start from £20 for a day tour. Before flying home, I pop into the Jardin Majorelle, £4, just outside the city walls (). Yves Saint Laurent owned this museum and gardens until his death in 2008, and came here most years to design. With terrapins swimming in ornate pools and bright murals painted everywhere, it’s busy but tranquil. I decide, just like the French fashion icon did, that I’ll be returning to Marrakech, too.