MADRID is a city with art at its heart, tapas in its belly and Rioja running through its veins.
From foodies to footie fans and art aficionados, it is an exciting destination for anyone at any time of year, but with festive markets in full swing and 12million LED lights twinkling above the streets and plazas, it makes for a charming winter break.
WHY SHOULD I VISIT?
You haven’t had tapas until you’ve had it in Madrid.
Nothing beats wandering the narrow streets, finding a taberna and being served a few juicy morsels of chorizo or Iberian ham free with your drinks.
Most of the traditional bars do this, like Taberna la Dolores, where we were given tuna and pepper montaditos (tapas on toast) with our beers.
If only British bars would adopt this custom.
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STREETS MADE FOR WALKING?
The city is great for exploring on foot — this is how you’ll discover its special tabernas and cafes.
There is a Metro that criss-crosses the city too.
Meander to Plaza Mayor for its Christmas market and try the Madrid Arts and Crafts fair in the Paseo de Recoletos for artisan gifts.
The Matadero Madrid, a former slaughterhouse, has ice-skating from December to January.
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Or make like a local and head for El Retiro Park.
The Madrilenos go there en masse to stroll, jog or skate along the wide avenues.
It’s a prime location for people-watching — we saw a puppet show, gymnasts, and dancers.
Find the Fallen Angel statue (sitting 666m above sea level) then walk down to the Crystal Palace with its half-submerged bald Cypress trees and on to the boating lake.
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Picasso’s Guernica, one of the world’s most famous paintings, resides at the Reina Sofia museum.
This formidable piece is worth the entrance price alone, but the gallery is also home to magnificent modern works from the likes of Dali and Miro.
A standard ticket is 12 euros, but on certain days entry is free entry after 7pm.
The larger Prado gallery is where you’ll find the old masters.
Highlights include Goya’s nightmarish black paintings and Hieronymus Bosch’s eye-popping Garden of Earthly Delights.
Buy an art pass (Paseo del Arte) if you’re planning to visit several galleries (32 euros, ).
WHERE SHOULD I EAT?
Mercado de San Miguel is unmissable.
The food market is bustling and buzzy and surprisingly good value.
We got a tray of fat sardines, delicious anchovies and mouth-watering cod tapas for 17 euros.
If you want something warmer in winter, look out for cocido madrileño, a stew of chickpeas and pork, on restaurant menus around the city.
We tried Maceira in the Huertas neighbourhood and had a fava bean and clam stew and divine tortilla de betanzos.
It’s just egg, potatoes, oil, and salt — and a miracle how they make it taste so good.
We over-ordered with chorizo and patatas bravas too, which was served in bowls but including rioja, the bill still came in under 50 euros.
I FANCY A DRINK
We mastered the Spanish art of “salir de copas” (going out for a drink) during our trip and Vermouth became our go-to tipple.
It’s a fortified wine infused with orange, cloves and other botanicals for wintery vibes.
It’s not as bitter as the Italian version.
If you’re after an authentic experience, try Bodega La Ardosa in the Chamberi district.
It’s often busy, you have to crawl under the bar to get to the backroom and the draft vermouth is just 2.50 euros.
Most tabernas offer only one draft lager.
If you want something else, seek out one of the city’s micro breweries and craft bars.
We loved the retro vibes of Chinaski, La Maripepa with its English pub feel and La Osita taproom for its epic Hercules stout.
WHERE SHOULD I STAY?
The Hard Rock Hotel Madrid is perfectly placed for the galleries, park and lively Huerta neighbourhood.
Its lobby has a huge Spanish guitar sculpture and memorabilia from the Rolling Stones to Rihanna.
Musical touches are everywhere.
Our room came with its own Fender guitar, retro turntable and stack of vinyl.
You can access guitar lessons and Rock Om yoga classes through the TV.
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The hotel’s Sessions restaurant (with a ceiling designed to look like the inside of a Spanish guitar) offers American food with Spanish accents and a great breakfast to fuel all the exploring you’re going to do.
GO: Madrid
GETTING THERE: Ryanair flies from Stansted, Manchester and other UK airports to Madrid from £19.99 each way.
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STAYING THERE: Rooms at the Hard Rock Hotel cost from £130 on a room-only basis.
Book by December 6, 2024, for 30 per cent off stays from December 15, 2024 to August 31, 2025.
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