The Spanish island that’s ideal for winter sun where it’s still hot right now and you can find £2 pints
A WARM breeze drifts through the open balcony doors just as I’m lulled to sleep by the sound of waves splashing lazily against the shore.
It’s November, I’m steeling myself for the festive season’s craziness, and I can’t think of a better way to relax before it all than this.
A long weekend in Lanzarote was just the trick, where the sun shone in a clear blue sky and the balmy temperatures warmed my winter bones.
Our getaway was to the wonderfully located Barcelo Teguise Beach, right on the seafront in Costa Teguise.
This smaller resort on the island’s sunny east coast is known for its lovely golden sand beach and compact, walkable centre.
And we loved the fact our adult-only hotel was right in the heart of the action.
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Our room looked out over the bay and down below, and we could watch the morning joggers on the promenade and holidaymakers strolling day and night along the seafront’s many bars, restaurants and shops.
The hotel’s Champs sports bar sits right on the promenade too, so you can enjoy all the benefits of the hotel’s all-inclusive package while still being in the midst of the town and beachfront.
This 4H resort has a lovely boutique feel to it and welcomes a mix of nationalities — the majority British — with a relaxed, chilled atmosphere.
There are two pools, a lovely courtyard main pool lined with palm trees with plenty of sun loungers and cabana beds as well as a rather swish infinity number on a terrace overlooking the seafront.
There was of course some of the inevitable lounger-hogging for the sunniest spots but it was encouraging to see staff clear away towels if beds remained unoccupied for long periods.
The vibe was calm with activities such as aqua aerobics and board games occasionally across the day from the hotel’s enthusiastic staff.
By night, guests gathered after dinner in the swish B-Lounge where there was live music and excellent cocktails.
I was particularly impressed that the drinks were all premium brands, served with a flourish by the waiters at your table directly from the spirit bottle.
The hotel offers B&B and half-board options as well as all-inclusive deals and the food was of good quality with plenty of choice.
The main buffet restaurant, open in winter for breakfast and dinner, featured a different themed cuisine each night, as well as plentiful fresh salads and live cooking stations serving up everything from freshly grilled seafood to steaks.
At lunch, those on all-inclusive could choose from the comfort pub classics at Champs or light local cuisine at the Breeze Gastro Pool Bar.
I loved the Canarian cold tomato soup with slices of boiled egg and quality Iberico ham.
Rooms — recently refurbished — were the perfect place to relax, too. Our junior suite came with a separate living room and two balconies — one with its own hot tub, the other with loungers.
With plenty of storage space, USB sockets and rainfall shower with quality full-size toiletries, it really ticked all the boxes. The black and white loo rolls were a quirky touch — reflecting the island’s natural volcanic geography.
Many of the hotel’s deluxe double rooms also feature a tub on the balcony.
Unique natural beauty
The resort’s classic Lanzarote architecture of brilliant white walls and vibrant green woodwork are of course part of the huge legacy of the Spanish artist, architect and activist Cesar Manrique.
His passion for preserving the island’s unique natural beauty saw him lead the way in fighting overdevelopment when tourism boomed in the 1980s.
His influence helped establish strict building regulations that remain in place to this day, that buildings must be low-rise and feature traditional colours with doors and windows in blue or green.
And the great man played a significant role in the development of Costa Teguise itself. We wandered around the Pueblo Marinero, a complex of white-washed buildings with green wooden shutters and balconies that is home to a host of shops, houses and restaurants.
Las Cucharas beach was developed in a way to respect the natural landscape, and even humble roundabouts in the town feature sculptures and other artworks.
But that’s not to say you’re in a Disneyesque fantasy: there are still oodles of places to eat and drink with the inevitable Irish bars and tapas joints offering happy hour £2 pints and cocktails from £4.50.
After a couple of days to relax, we took to our hire car to explore more of the island and Manrique’s influence.
We rented a car through Cicar, picking it up easily from the airport. This Which?-recommended hire car provider is a gem. I paid £155 for five days. We were pleased to be offered an upgrade and all their cars come with no insurance excess.
There’s even a handy Cicar app to help you with audio guides to the island’s main attractions
Lisa Minot
There is even a handy Cicar app to help you with audio guides to the island’s main attractions.
Just a ten-minute drive took us to Manrique’s former home and studio in Taro de Tahiche, which is now the headquarters of the foundation dedicated to preserving his legacy.
Also a museum displaying his art and personal collections, the astonishing house is built into a lava field with rooms and even a pool garden carved out of the natural volcanic formations.
Sunday is also the best day to visit the inland town of Teguise — its narrow, cobbled streets host a weekly market selling handmade crafts including pottery, ceramics and jewellery from local artisans as well as your standard souvenirs, food and Canarian cheeses and meats.
We stopped for lunch at La Bodeguita del Medio in the middle of the market, paying just £16.50 for a generous platter of six tapas dishes plus a basket of bread, enjoying plump prawns, spicy chorizo sausage and crisp potatoes.
With clear roads and little traffic, in just half an hour we were admiring the astonishing, stark lava fields and volcanic craters in the Timanfaya national park.
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Manrique’s influence continues here — he designed many of the buildings in the park including the El Diablo restaurant where chefs cook over the heat of the dormant volcano.
Here, you can tuck into grilled dishes including chicken and chorizo in the Manrique-designed dining room with stunning views all around.
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GETTING / STAYING THERE: Seven nights’ half-board in a deluxe double room with hot tub is from £881pp including flights from Stansted on January 14, 2025, 22kg luggage and transfers. Birmingham, East Midlands, Manchester departures also available.
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