Soak up some of the best beaches along France’s glittering and tranquil coast
CASTER-sugar sand and the gentle slap and hiss of waves from a tranquil sea.
No, I’m not on a Pacific island, I’m in Brittany. You probably know it for its rocky coves and rugged coastline. It’s the French Cornwall, right?
But venture to the gentler south coast and you’ll find it boasts some of France’s most beautiful beaches.
I’ve just taken the plunge at the Plage de Raguenez, a spot locals from nearby Névez have re-christened Tahiti Beach.
And it’s not alone. There are dozens of enchanting bays along this stretch of coast. Most are no more than a couple of hours’ drive from a channel port, so there’s no need to bother with flights or the ten-hour slog to the fabled Riviera once it’s recovered from the current fires.
The glorious Golfe du Morbihan, or Little Sea in Breton, is an inland adventure playground of glittering water studded with islands.
The gulf has more than 100 miles of coastal paths and cycle routes. Take a hike and you’ll be following in the footsteps of history. The paths were created during the French Revolution so customs officers could prowl the shore to combat smuggling and stealing from wrecked ships.
I was staying at the Miramar La Cigale Hotel Thalasso & Spa, designed to look like a stately cruise liner.
The nautical theme continues inside with two seawater pools, one of which has a retractable roof, and a stunning fitness room with floor-to-ceiling, panoramic windows offering views over the ocean.
Don a robe and float down a couple of gleaming white, spot-lit “decks” to the spa, where they specialise in thalassotherapy, a treatment based on seawater, ocean products and the coastal climate.
If you’re not looking to push the boat out, the beach is a hundred yards away.
Or wander along the path to lively Port Crouesty marina, which is lined with well-priced restaurants, cafes and bars.
The regional delicacy here is oysters. Farming these little critters is a big local industry.
You can buy them fresh from the farmers or, if you’re feeling less adventurous, from pretty much every cafe in the area.
Pick up some salted butter caramels, Breton biscuits and galettes, too.
Locally brewed cider or cider brandy — Lambig — is also a must.
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Tourist boss and local resident Arnaud Burel knows the 50 square miles of the gulf better than most.
“Locals like to say there is an island for every day of the year,” he says.
“Actually, there are around 40 and that depends on the tide.”
At Arnaud’s insistence we nip along to Port Navalo to catch a pleasure boat for £20.50 per person, towards the two biggest islands, Ile-aux-Moines and Ile-d’Arz.
Speedboats and jet-skiers lark about in our wake as the on-board guide points out the megalithic ruins and stone circles that loom among the channels, headlands and inlets.
We disembark at Ile-aux-Moines.
Here, daytrippers hire bikes at the pier and use the hour-and-a-half pit stop to explore.
We wander the shore before stopping to sample local beer Blanche Hermine (white stoat).
Legend has it Breton king Conan Meriadec was hunting and came across a white stoat at the edge of a muddy stream.
The stoat could have fled but didn’t want to soil his noble coat so turned to face the hunters and died.
The animal became the emblem for Brittany’s knights.
Its bid to remain unspoiled seems somehow fitting in a region working to maintain its fragile ecosystem.
The brewers say the story inspires the purity and colour of their beer.
I’ll drink to that. Santé!
GO: BRITTANY
STAYING THERE: Rooms at the Miramar La Cigale Hotel Thalasso and Spa start from £85 per person per night based on two sharing with access to the fitness room, spa and hammam until 8.30pm.
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GETTING THERE: Brittany Ferries operates routes from Portsmouth, Poole and Plymouth.
Return from Portsmouth to St Malo costs from £215 for a car and two people, with an en-suite cabin going out.
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