Gastronomic French town of Conques inspired set design for Disney film

AS the breeze lifted the vines above us, my best mate and I sipped crisp rosé and looked out over Conques' cobbled streets.

This started a long weekend of luxury dining and fabulous hotels, while exploring the most beautiful towns of Aveyron in France, north of the Pyrenees.

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The region is dotted with vineyards, farms and fields of lilacs and sunflowers.

In the towns, narrow alleys wind between the medieval churches, their cobbles worn smooth.

Market squares echo to the sound of traders selling fresh bread, fruit and meat. In the restaurants, Gallic alchemy turns every meal into forkfuls of heaven.

The belle of the ball, first on our list, was Conques. Disney modelled the set of its recent Beauty & The Beast film on this stunning hillside town. It is easy to see why.

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Every quiet corner of the car-free streets boasts something lovely to look at, from cats curled on medieval stone steps to climbing vines of roses in full bloom.

It has been a place of pilgrimage for centuries. Legend has it the town didn't get many visitors until a cheeky monk stole the bones of Sainte Foy, or Saint Faith, from nearby Agen in the ninth century.

The holy relics now rest in a gold shrine in the Treasury next to Sainte-Foy Abbey Church, a Unesco World Heritage site that soars over the grey slate roofs.

The church's stunning stainedglass windows change from blue to grey to white with the light.

The Treasury must be seen to be believed — a room filled with gold altars, offering plates and chests studded with jewels. I was in history-geek heaven.

After a peaceful hour meandering around on foot, we enjoyed a wellearned glass of grape-based goodness at the Hotel Restaurant Sainte-Foy, with a salad of sweet heritage tomatoes in yellows, greens and reds.

If that sounds virtuous, we had only just finished a whopping breakfast — and were bound for an equally huge dinner.

Breakfast at the Chateau Labro in Onet-le-Chateau was a chic affair, with eggs, cheese, creamy yoghurt and home-made nutty muesli followed by exquisite home-made apricot jam and honey with soft fresh bread.

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The chateau sits just outside the town of Rodez — try a mouthwatering steak at Le Coq de La Place for dinner — and is heavenly.

Our room was in a turret on the top floor and overlooked a stretch of immaculate lawn leading to the pool. Take a dip after a day of sightseeing in the summer, then sunbathe amid the baby vines surrounding it.

We collapsed there after returning from Conques via Estaing — a village very nearly as gorgeous, with an 11th-century chateau and Gothic bridge.

The bridge, another Unesco World Heritage site, was the perfect place to sit and watch the world go by with a cold beer.

Well, even in France you can't drink wine ALL the time.

Speaking of which, do come to Aveyron thirsty. There are just so many wines you must try.

On our second day in the region, we met with wine expert Kasper Ibfelt, who is tasked with turning the local Marcillac grapes into wines to rival those of Bordeaux and Languedoc.

At his cellars in Valady, we sampled delicious reds, whites and a ratafia for good measure as he spoke passionately about his mission. Kasper may as well have been speaking for the whole of Aveyron.

Throughout, it felt as if we were being let in on a great secret — an undiscovered gem, free from traffic and bustle. After yet another fourcourse meal at the Auberge de l'Ady — try the pig's trotters with chorizo and the incredibly creamy goat's cheese — we drove to the final stop of our trip. It would prove the most spectacular.

Belcastel is a tiny village with a ninth-century castle perched high above the river at its heart.

Our car's impact sensors went ballistic as I inched gingerly across the ancient stone bridge to the Hotel du Vieux Pont.

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My bestie, Dulcie, got the giggles while an angler waited patiently to return to his sport once I was out of the way. If you want to escape the world, this is a good place to start.

We sauntered back across the bridge for dinner at the hotel's award-winning restaurant, indulging in distinctly non-PC foie gras (it melted guiltily in my mouth), lamb then chocolate pudding with coriander and grapefruit.

Had we enjoyed a four-course lunch not four hours ago? Oui.

Is Aveyron a place for dieting and restraint? Mais non.

Arteries be blowed. After creme brulee and warm rolls for breakfast in the garden, there was time for one more blowout on the way to the airport. We bagged a shady lunch table at Le Senechal overlooking Sauveterre-de-Rouergue's historic square.

Asparagus sorbet was followed by tender beef and carrots. It was here we discovered aligot — a sinful combo of mashed potato and melted cheese I will hunt for in Britain.

Half a stone heavier and a good deal happier, we waddled to the hire car to head for home. It was time to Conques out.