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Live it up in 'kech

Soak up the sun, the sites and the savings by visiting the Moroccan city of Marrakech

I BATTLE to the airport through a blizzard, in parka, hat and gloves, as the Beast from the East roared in.

Strolling through Jardin Majorelle in Marrakech just four hours later, my attire could not be more different. A light shirt, jeans and sandals are almost too warm for my March break as I wander between giant cactai and spiky palms.

 Marrakech's French-designed Jardin Majorelle, which is now owned by fashion designer Yves Saint-Laurent
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Marrakech's French-designed Jardin Majorelle, which is now owned by fashion designer Yves Saint-LaurentCredit: Getty - Contributor

But when you are following in the footsteps of fashion royalty, you need to make an effort.

The gardens in this magical Moroccan city were once owned by the late French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent.

Today they have been lovingly restored and are just moments from the newly completed museum that pays homage to the style king.

We admire some of his best-known pieces — the Mondrian dress and safari jacket — before settling down for lunch in the sun in Jardin Majorelle’s courtyard cafe.

 The Sofitel Marrakech Palais Imperial Hotel
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The Sofitel Marrakech Palais Imperial Hotel

The place is almost dazzlingly colourful after our grey start in snowy London — a riot of oversized tropical plants, intense blue-painted buildings and vivid yellow pots.

Refreshed, we head for the city’s Berber Museum and take in the history of the country’s indigenous people, from their tools and religion to jewellery and clothing. A ticket for our party of three is just £13.

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Riotous colour was a theme of our short city break, for which we were based at the Sofitel Marrakech Palais Imperial Hotel, just a 15-minute walk from Marrakech’s Old Town.

Moorish minarets and swaying palms decorate the hotel, with three pools, lovely restaurants and bars, plus upper-floor views of the Atlas Mountains.

Although not cheap, the comfort it affords is a welcome escape from the mayhem of Marrakech.

 The city's main square, Jemaa el-Fnaa
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The city's main square, Jemaa el-FnaaCredit: Alamy

The city is an assault on the senses — from the markets filled with the heady scents of spices, to narrow roads where taxi horns compete with the clatter of horseshoes from the many traps carrying tourists.

You will thank yourself for somewhere calm and clean to return to after a day exploring.

Spend some time wandering through Jemaa el-Fnaa, the city’s main square where you will find food stalls, snake charmers, music and all kinds of entertainment. Arrive before sunset to get your bearings then watch as the square comes alive after dark. Or wander through the souks that line the square, where you can barter to your heart’s content for jewellery, bags, shoes, clothes, spices.

 An interior courtyard at the Dar Jamai Museum, in Marrakech
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An interior courtyard at the Dar Jamai Museum, in MarrakechCredit: Alamy

The pressure-selling can come across as intimidating at first but a polite smile and a firm “No!” is all that is needed — and the hilarious sales patter of the shop owners is an experience in itself.

While enjoying the fabulous street food in the Jemaa el-Fnaa is a must, sampling the grilled meats and salads at restaurant Naranj on Rue Riad Zitoun Jdid is also a treat.

Portions are huge in this contemporary bistro and a three-course meal sets you back just £20.

For a break from the rush of the city, another great idea is a day trip to the Atlas Mountains’ Ouzoud waterfalls. Not only do you get a breath-taking view of the 110-metre cascades of water as they crash down the mountain, you will also get to walk with Barbary apes.

 The apes who live around the Ouzoud waterfalls in the nearby Atlas Mountains are friendly to humans - maybe too friendly
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The apes who live around the Ouzoud waterfalls in the nearby Atlas Mountains are friendly to humans - maybe too friendlyCredit: Andrea Downey

The area is a reserve for the apes — but be warned, they are used to people so don’t be surprised if they walk right up to you or even jump on your back.

Once you have descended the 300- plus steps down to the bottom of the waterfall you can, on a clear day, take a barge across the water to get right to the foot of the cascade for a truly spectacular view.

Then you can relax with a traditional tagine stew at one of the waterside cafes before making your way back up those steps.

 Another one of Marrakech's gems, the Secret Garden
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Another one of Marrakech's gems, the Secret GardenCredit: Alamy

Between the city and the mountains, you get to experience all the beauty and culture Marrakech has to offer.

Back in the city, the peaceful Le Jardin Secret — or Secret Garden — is well worth a visit.

It costs about £4 to enter this peaceful haven, which has roots dating back 400 years and was home to some of Marrakech’s important political figures.

Rebuilt in the 19th century, the garden has beautiful examples of Islamic architecture and art, and its water features are fed by the Atlas Mountains, through tunnels and built in the 11th century.

If you get a chance, go up the garden’s tower, which costs about £2 more but is money very well spent for the spectacular views you get from the top.

Our short trip transported us in just three hours from winter grey to vibrant sunshine.

I think Yves Saint Laurent would have been proud as I returned to work in my best souk clothes, not a wolly scarf to be seen.

GO: MARRAKECH

GETTING / STAYING THERE: Online specialist loveholidays has four nights’ B&B at the 5* Sofitel Marrakech Palais Imperial from £364 per person in June, including return flights from Stansted, based on two adults sharing.

MORE INFORMATION: See or call 0203 870 6844.




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