How to have the perfect family holiday in Paris — even with stroppy teenagers
Paris is full of so much to do and explore that even the most self-absorbed 'Kevin' would have a hard time not noticing
WHAT do you do when “I’m bored!” is replaced by “You’re stupid!” and “Are we there yet?” is now “You can’t tell me what to do!”?
Holidaying with stroppy teens is a pretty terrifying proposition for most parents.
Having just returned from working in Venezuela, where the rule of law is crumbling, I was almost as nervous about travelling to Paris with my two boys.
My 11-year-old son is all sweetness and light when not being bashed by his big brother — at which point he starts to shriek.
My older one, who is 13, is taking the “awkward teenager” concept to psychotic new heights — sulking, rapping, sucking his teeth, refusing to say hello in the morning.
I must be completely mad, I told myself, as the first vicious scrap broke out over who would have the bed closest to the wall socket.
Newly installed at the family-friendly Novotel hotel, both wanted to charge their phones.
But life has a way of surprising you sometimes.
Paris teems with so much activity and adventure that even the most self-absorbed “Kevin” would have a hard time not noticing.
A colourful frenzy of people and architecture flashes past constantly.
We started our trip by paying a few euros to take the Metro across town to Anvers station next to the Sacre Coeur.
Stopping at a busy creperie next to the steep cobbled streets of Montmartre, which lead up to a towering Roman Catholic basilica, we bought incredible chocolate ice cream and waffles covered in Nutella to fuel our trek to the top.
After exploring the church and taking in jaw-dropping views over the city, we went back to our hotel.
The Novotel in the neighbourhood of Montparnasse is perfect for families on a half-term break.
The lobby is bright and spacious while the food at the restaurant is excellent, with a great breakfast buffet and a kids’ menu in the evening for under ten euros (£9).
The place has nice little touches like a Polaroid photo box you can use for free and our room came with Hotel Transylvania-themed bed sheets, dressing gowns and slippers.
With a double bed and two single beds, there was plenty of room for us all to sleep.
On day two we paid to go to the second floor of the Eiffel Tower.
Visit the official website to book in advance and save having to queue.
For adults it costs 16 euros (£14), less for children.
We then took a few steps down to the River Seine to jump on a boat cruise that floats past sights such as the dizzying Louvre — an art museum so big that to see it all is the equivalent of doing a half-marathon, according to the Louvre’s recorded guide.
The three of us then discovered what would become our favourite part of the trip.
Velib is a public bicycle-sharing scheme similar to ours in London.
It is fairly easy to use, as you key your bank card details into a machine on the street — you do need to leave a 300-euro (£269) deposit — then pick up a ticket and choose the bike you want.
Velib’s bikes are electric, making it easy to traverse the city.
We soon found there is no better way to get around.
We travelled all over Paris, stopping only for lunch and to visit the occasional museum.
Our new wheels allowed us to really experience the city and immerse ourselves in it, rather than whizzing past it in a car or underground on the Metro.
MOST READ IN TRAVEL
If you don’t fancy braving the roads, there is a wide promenade next to the Seine where cars are not allowed.
By the end of our three-day August trip, we had stories to share, memories to cherish and beautiful familial feelings to carry us back to London.
Once home, we had a massive row about using the PlayStation before bed.
GO: PARIS
GETTING THERE: Eurostar has 16 daily departures to Paris from St Pancras. see eurostar.com.
STAYING THERE: Novotel Paris Centre Gare Montparnasse Hotel has rooms from £173 per night including free wifi. Children under 16 stay and can eat breakfast for free. See .